Culinary Journey to Kagawa Prefecture
Greetings from Park Hyatt Tokyo. I’m Paul Gajewski, Chef de Cuisine at New York Grill.
This summer, New York Grill is featuring “Olive-fed Wagyu Beef,” a premium Japanese beef also known as Sanuki beef, prepared in a harmonious agricultural farming method developed over many years. The result is a perfect balance during feeding and overall farming, where animals and the environment are appropriately balanced. Recently we had the pleasure of traveling to the home of olive-fed beef, Kagawa Prefecture.
Kagawa, the smallest prefecture in Japan, is located in the southwest part of this country and is made up of a group of very rich and fertile islands, most of which specialize in small but high-quality products using abundant natural resources. As a result, many locals have told me that everything in this area naturally grows faster and healthier.
Our first stop was to inspect our beef processing supplier, and this is where the olive-fed beef for New York Grill is expertly prepared to our specifications and standards. There, we learned about the aging process and quality control and discussed the critical characteristics of olive-fed beef; taste, aroma, texture, and appearance.
We all agreed that the subtle taste and aroma of the beef are pure and clean, and the high oleic acid contributes to the tenderness of the meat, which is easily digested and is not too rich or heavy. Additionally, the shiny and bright appearance with a very even distribution of fine marble-to-meat ratio shows its fine quality. All these characteristics are because the olive-fed cattle live in a peaceful location surrounded by nature, have a wholesome feed, and are well taken care of.
Next, we were off to the olive farm. This is where we source from for the amuse-bouche for the olive-fed beef menu. There is profound simplicity but an incredibly natural flavor to these olives. They are unlike any olives I have tasted anywhere in the world. They have a purity about them, no bitterness or sourness. They are small, firm, and have a subtle sweetness, with a clean but lengthy finish.
Early the next day, we set out on the Olive Line Ferry, which took us to our goal destination of Shodoshima island, the home, and birthplace of olive-fed wagyu beef.
We were greeted by the founder and pioneer, Mr. Masaki Ishii, who is now in his 70s and still going strong. The area is tranquil, quiet, and surrounded by the lush greenery of olive trees. The cows have a peaceful life, enjoying the comfort of each other’s company. The eyes of the cows show their gentle and calm nature and reflect the care that Mr. Ishii provides for all the animals.
We discussed his legacy, which started when he was a teenager, farming various vegetables but also wanting to farm beef with a sustainable agriculture method. He later started supporting the olive growers to help maximize the use of their olive by-product, which was developed into the feed for the livestock.
Mr. Ishii has always wanted to follow his perfect circle. He truly appreciates each aspect of farming and wants to do right for the environment, and he has created an ideal process of real, sustainable farming. His knowledge and legacy have been passed on to not only Kagawa Prefecture but the whole of Japan, and now the rest of the world is taking note.
Kagawa prefecture is truly an amazing location nurtured and looked after by the most passionate and humble people. Each product we saw was of the highest quality and made with the utmost care and responsibility. It’s never been about quantity for the farmers, growers, or producers, and it’s all about making the best they can and staying true to the product.
I cannot thank the Kagawa prefecture and its people enough; we had a wonderful experience.
Click here to see Mr. Ishii’s interview by Chef Paul
Learn more about New York Grill’s special dinner “From Olive to Beef.”
